The elimination of microplastics in cosmetic formulations is one of the major challenges currently faced by laboratory technicians. Regulatory pressure, environmental impact, and the demand for more sustainable products are forcing the industry to rethink ingredients that for many years have been key in terms of stability, sensoriality, and performance.
In this article, we analyse where microplastics are used in cosmetics, what functions they fulfil and, above all, how they can be replaced through technically viable alternatives.
Although they have historically been valued for their technical versatility, they are now being questioned due to their persistence in the environment and their potential impact on human health.
For formulators, the challenge is not only to remove the ingredient, but to maintain the performance of the final product.
Technical alternatives:
These options make it possible to maintain the exfoliating effect with a much more favourable environmental profile.
Common alternatives:
In this case, the challenge is usually to recover sensoriality and stability, which requires technical optimisation.
Substitution options:
These solutions allow the desired visual impact to be maintained without relying on persistent polymers.
Emerging alternatives:
In these cases, substitution largely depends on:
Each project is unique, and the selection of alternatives must be approached with a technical and long-term perspective.
For laboratory technicians, the challenge lies in balancing performance, sensoriality, and regulatory compliance, while anticipating a rapidly evolving market.
In this article, we analyse where microplastics are used in cosmetics, what functions they fulfil and, above all, how they can be replaced through technically viable alternatives.
What is considered a microplastic?
According to the ECHA, microplastics are solid polymer particles (typically < 5 mm) that may be intentionally added to products, including cosmetics.Although they have historically been valued for their technical versatility, they are now being questioned due to their persistence in the environment and their potential impact on human health.
Why is it a priority to replace microplastics?
- Increasingly restrictive European regulation
- Greater environmental awareness among consumers
- Brand commitment to “microplastic-free” formulations
- The need to anticipate future restrictions
For formulators, the challenge is not only to remove the ingredient, but to maintain the performance of the final product.
Where are microplastics used in cosmetics?
1. As exfoliating agents
For many years, plastic particles were used for physical exfoliation in rinse-off products.Technical alternatives:
- Micronised plant seeds and shells
- Natural mineral powders
- Renewable-origin materials with controlled particle size
These options make it possible to maintain the exfoliating effect with a much more favourable environmental profile.
2. As rheology modifiers
Some synthetic polymers used to thicken or stabilise emulsions are classified as microplastics.Common alternatives:
- Biopolymers
- Biodegradable polymers
- Natural gums (with formulation adjustments)
In this case, the challenge is usually to recover sensoriality and stability, which requires technical optimisation.
3. As opacifying agents
In products such as shampoos or shower gels, microplastics provide a milky and creamy appearance.Substitution options:
- Systems based on surfactant blends
- Crystalline esters
- Mineral dispersions suitable for cosmetic applications
These solutions allow the desired visual impact to be maintained without relying on persistent polymers.
4. As encapsulating agents
Some actives or fragrances are encapsulated using microplastics to improve their stability or release profile.Emerging alternatives:
- Encapsulation using biodegradable polymers
- Systems based on biopolymers
- More environmentally friendly controlled-release technologies
5. Other technical uses
Microplastics may also act as:- Film-forming agents
- Fixatives
- Dispersing agents
- Conditioning agents
In these cases, substitution largely depends on:
- The cosmetic form
- The type of application
- The desired sensorial profile
The role of the formulator in the “microplastic-free” transition
Replacing microplastics is not a simple ingredient swap. It requires:- Technical expertise
- Reformulation trials
- Adjustments to processes and costs
- Evaluation of regulatory and environmental impact
Each project is unique, and the selection of alternatives must be approached with a technical and long-term perspective.
Conclusion
The elimination of microplastics in cosmetics is an irreversible trend. Fortunately, there are now technically viable alternatives that allow the development of effective, stable, and more sustainable formulations.For laboratory technicians, the challenge lies in balancing performance, sensoriality, and regulatory compliance, while anticipating a rapidly evolving market.